"Letters from Europe (and Elsewhere) Book Presentation in Budapest

Here's the announcement/invitation to my book present in Budapest next Monday, March 23:

AUSTERIA

Publishing Company and Bookstore (Cracow - Budapest)

kindly invites you to the presentation of

Letters from Europe (and Elsewhere)

by

Ruth Ellen Gruber

The event will take place on

Monday, March 23, 2009 at 18.00.

in Austeria Bookstore

( Budapest, VII. Nagydiófa 30-32),

and will be hosted by Michael Miller

(Assistant Professor in Nationalism Studies Program at the CEU, Budapest)

The event will be in English

Ruth Ellen Gruber is an American writer and photographer based in Europe. Her books include "National Jewish Heritage Travel: A Guide to Eastern Europe" and "Virtually Jewish: Reinventing Jewish Culture In Europe." Her articles and photographs have appeared in the New York Times, the International Herald Tribune and many other publications. She was the chief correspondent in Poland for UPI during the Solidarność and Martial Law period, until she was jailed and expelled from the country in 1983. Ruth Ellen Gruber contributes regular "Letters from Europe" (and sometimes elsewhere) to the U.S. magazine The New Leader. Mixing travelogue with social and cultural commentary, she delves under the skin of European society to provide a closely observed, uniquely personal take on topics ranging from politics to pop music, from architecture to local cuisine. This volume collects a decade of her colorful, insightful reports - from 1997 to 2007. The datelines range from Warsaw and Sarajevo to Bucharest, London, Budapest, Brno, Nuremberg, Paris, the tiny village of Morruzze, Italy, and more.

Me on Czech Radio (in English)

When I was in Prague last week, I was interviewed by Jan Richter for the English language service of Czech Radio -- on subjects ranging from Jewish heritage to European country music. I tried to keep my answered pegged a bit to the Czech experience, so I discussed positive developments in the preservation of Jewish heritage sites in CZ, and (in the country music segments) the collaboration between CZ country star Michal Tucny with the American Rattlesnake Annie, as well as the American reception of the group Druha Trava.

“These interests come together in a funny way. One of the processes, one of the things I have been quite interested in and explored quite a bit in the Jewish sphere is the way that non-Jewish people in Europe, in a place where very few – if any – Jews live today become interested in appropriating or viewing Jewish culture and traditions for their own purposes, either to form their own identities, or out of interest. And then I also became interested in how Europeans are fascinated by the American Wild West and all its trappings, and sort of feel at home in that mythology, and often use it to enrich their own culture. And part of this is country music.”

If you go to the site, you can click a button to listen to the full interview.

Czech Republic -- Ustek

My latest photo and comment (in Italian) are up at the moked.it site -- a Golem guarding the recently restored synagogue in Ustek, CZ.

Photo (c) Ruth Ellen Gruber

• 
• 
  
• Un Golem fa la guardia davanti alla sinagoga restaurata di Ustek, un villaggio nella Repubblica Ceca dove non ci sono più ebrei. Nella tradizione ebraica, il Golem e' un uomo artificiale, creato, e poi magicamente portato a vita, per proteggere gli ebrei contro i loro persecutori. Nella leggenda più famosa, il Golem fu creato dall'argilla e gli diede vita il mitico (e mistico) Rabbi Loew di Praga, che utilizzò una parola segreta per compiere la trasformazione. Ma il Golem - che è il prototipo di Frankenstein - sfuggì al suo controllo. Distruggeva invece di proteggere. Fino a quando il Rabbi Loew non fu costretto a spegnerlo, nascondendo poi il corpo inerte nel soffitto della sinagoga medioevale Alt-Neu di Praga. La Comunità ebraica di Ustek, come quella di più di 150 città e cittadine ceche, fu distrutta durante la Shoah. Non c'è stato un Golem a proteggerle. O forse, si dice, la parola mistica che l'avrebbe riportato a vita era stata dimenticata. Dopo la guerra la sinagoga di Ustek è caduta in rovina. Era rimasto uno scheletro di pietra, senza tetto, quasi dimenticato. Alcuni anni fa, però, grazie a un progetto di cooperazione fra le autorità locali, la Comunità ebraica di Praga, e alcune organizzazioni internazionali, la sinagoga è stata restaurata con cura. Adesso all'edificio è stato assegnato un ruolo culturale, un ruolo di memoria, un ruolo di storia. E' come un museo, un monumento, un luogo di ricordo. E accanto, silenziosa, forse anche un po' minacciosa mentre fa la guardia, è tornata l'immagine del Golem.
  

I Receive HBI Research Award

Images of Candles being Blessed, on Tombstones in Radauti, 2006. Photo (c) Ruth Ellen Gruber

I have been awarded the Michael Hammer Tribute Research Grant by the Hadassah Brandeis Institute for a project called “(Candle)sticks on Stone: Representing the Woman in Jewish Tombstone Art”.

Each year the HBI awards 20 to 30 grants to support academic and artistic projects about Jews and gender. Debby Olins, the program director, told me that my project was selected by the HBI board as "an exceptional research award" to be dedicated to the memory of Michael Hammer, the husband of one of the board members, who died last year.

It centers around the richly decorated tombstones of women in the Jewish cemetery in Radauti, Romania, where my own great-grandmother, Ettel Gruber, is buried.

Radauti, 2006

The aim of my project is to provide a photographic documentation of the often elaborate tombstones of women Radauti and (probably) several other nearby towns in northern Romania (such as Siret, Botosani, Gura Humorului, Suceava), focusing on the representation of candlesticks.

I then want to integrate these photographs with research, personal reflections and memoir to create an on-line gallery/exhibition, which will also include anecdotes, literary references, personal stories, etc. I also hope to write a broader photographic and literary essay (and/or other articles) for publication. And I plan to set up a separate blog -- linked to this blog -- on which I will report my progress and reflections during the research and writing process.

Sabbath candles are a common symbol on the tombstones of Jewish women. This is because lighting the Sabbath candles is one of the three so-called "women's commandments" carried out by female Jews: these also include observing the laws of Niddah separating men from women during their menstrual periods, and that of Challah, or burning a piece of dough when making bread.

The first time I saw a Jewish woman's tombstone bearing a representation of candles was in 1978, when I visited Radauti for the first time and found the tombstone of my great-grandmother, who died in 1946 and in whose honor I received my middle name.

Radauti, 1991

I have been back to Radauti twice since then, and in the meantime I've also visited hundreds of other Jewish cemeteries as part of my documentation, research and writing for my book National Geographic Jewish Heritage Travel: A Guide to Eastern Europe, and other publications.

On the Web -- My New Weekly Comment for Italian Web Site

Monument marking where the synagogue stood, Buehl. Photo (c) Ruth Ellen Gruber

I've begun an experiment -- writing a brief, weekly commentary for the newsletter and web site of the Union of Italian Jewish Communities -- moked.it

The editor has asked me to take one of my photographs (or another image) each week and "read" it -- or at least "read into it," summing up my thoughts in a paragraph or two (in Italian).

Today, March 5, was the first appearance -- I commented on Germany's monuments commemorating the Holocaust, using a picture I took last month in Buehl, when I was there to attend a conference on Bluegrass Music....Read comment here

Vercelli -- Synagogue under Restoration

An article (in Italian) on the web site of the Union of Italian Jewish Communities describes the process of restoration that is current under way for the synagogue in Vercelli, between Milan and Turin in northern Italy. The synagogue stood almost abandoned and in very dilapidated condition for years. But some restoration work was carried out in 2003 and 2004, and a €700,000 project was begun in 2007. A very small Jewish community lives in Vercelli; community president Rossella Bottini Treves says that once restored, the synagogue will serve as a cultural space for the city. Read full article (in Italian).


The Vercelli synagogue: Photo from www.moked.it

The synagogue, inaugurated in 1878, was designed by Marco Treves, the Vercelli-born architect who also designed the synagogue in Florence. With its Moorish-style striping and flat, tripartite facade with a raised central portion, it resembles several important synagogues in Central Europe whose design was inspired by the Tempelgasse synagogue in Vienna, designed by Ludwig von Foerster and built in the 1850s, which was destroyed on Kristallnacht -- these include the destroyed synagogue in Zagreb and the Choral Synagogue in Bucharest, among others.

Choral Synagogue, Bucharest, 2006. Photo (c) Ruth Ellen Gruber

Synagogue in Vrbove, Slovakia, 2006. Photo (c) Ruth Ellen Gruber

Lithuania -- First books arrive for Jewish library

Wyman Brent, an American who is trying to establish a Jewish library in Vilnius, writes on the EEJH listserv that the first shipment of books has arrived safely and asks for help in furthering the project.

With all the negative news regarding the increase in anti-Semitism
taking place in the world, there is still a positive story to report.
Today a shipment of 165 boxes of Jewish books from California arrived
in Vilnius. The books will form the basis of the new Vilnius Jewish
Library. The library is being housed inside the Vilna Gaon Jewish
Museum. Instead of writing and telling me how wonderful I am and how
much you appreciate what I am doing, how about offering books for the
library?

Wyman can be reached at: vilniusjewishlibrary@yahoo.com

Poland -- more downloadable guide brochures and maps

Synagogue in Lesko, 2006. Photo (c) Ruth Ellen Gruber

Given that I posted the link to downloadable pdf Jewish guides to Warsaw, Czech Republic, and Hungary, I think it's important to note that the Foundation for the Preservation of Jewish Heritage in Poland (FODZ) has a number of downloadable guide brochures and maps available at his web site -- these particularly deal with the "Hasidic Route" that the Foundation is developing in partnership with local towns and organizations in various parts of eastern and southeastern Poland.

Click HERE for a list to access -- scroll down to "downloads." The brochures include individual guides to Zamosc, Sanok, Lezajsk, Rymanow, Krasnik, Lesko, Chelm, Jaroslaw, Ropczyce, and Ustrzyki Dolne, as well as a general map of the Route.

Most of these sites (and many more in Poland) are dealt with in my book National Geographic Jewish Heritage Travel: A Guide to Eastern Europe.

Czech Republic -- Downloadable New Guide

Synagogue in Rychnov nad Kneznou. Photo (c) Ruth Ellen Gruber

The Czech Tourism office has published a new, downloadable guide to Jewish heritage in the Czech Republic. The booklet has information and pictures on 16 towns and cities, and also includes web site information and other contacts.

You can download it by clicking HERE.

This adds to the growing list of downloadable Jewish guide brochures published localled -- such as the guides to Warsaw and to Hungary, both of which I have mentioned on this blog.

The text of the new guide was prepared by Brno-based Jaroslav Klenovsky, who has spent decades researching Jewish heritage in the country.

Towns included are Prague, Boskovice, Brno, Hartmanice, Hermanuv Mestec, Holesov, Jicin, Kolin, Mikulov, Pilsen, Polna, Rakovnik, Rychnov nad Kneznou, Terezin, Trebic, and Velke Mezerici.

All these sites -- plus many more (including some I like ever better) -- are included in my book, National Geographic Jewish Heritage Travel: A Guide to Eastern Europe, and I have posted recent information on some of them on this blog.

Ukraine -- New Web Resources on L'viv

Memorial plaque at the Golden Rose synagogue. Photo (c) Ruth Ellen Gruber

The L'viv Center for Urban History of East Central Europe has posted on its web site some valuable and easy-to-use new resources about Jewish heritage in L'viv. All are part of the Center's ongoing "L'viv Interactive" project on local history, culture and architecture.

One is a detailed description and photo gallery on the Golden Rose Synagogue.

The other comprises two galleries of images relating to the "Inner" Jewish community quarter, where the Golden Rose is located, not far from the main market square, or Rynok. They are part of a research project on the district being carried out by third-year architecture students. Its aim is

to accumulate a database of scholarly elaborations of archival and bibliographical data, live research, as well as visual (videorecordings, photogallery, graphic materials) and verbal (interviews) information. This data can contribute to the cause of discovering, bringing back and renewing the memory of the Jewish legacy in Lviv.

The project proposes to illuminate the history of the city quarter, once inhabited by Jews, provide detailed descriptions of Jewish sacred and public buildings, and trace the development of residential construction, supplemented by information on the owners and residents of the houses. The project will contribute to the cause of illuminating and popularizing Jewish history, culture, tradition and art, both for the residents of Lviv, and for visitors to te city, as the Jewish legacy of Lviv is undoubtedly an important element of promoting the city.

The project was envisioned as an experiment for the historic part of the city, which is included in the UNESCO cultural heritage list.

One of the galleries is a catalogue of images showing the places where mezuzahs were once placed on doorposts -- scars that were once a frequent sight in many towns in east-central Europe.

The other is a set of drawings of specific buildings in the neighborhood.