Wednesday, July 16, 2008

My Article on Mayer Kirshenblatt's Poland Paintings

PAINTING A LOST WORLD IN POLAND




Published: 07/10/2008

Since learning to paint at 73, Mayer Kirshenblatt's mission for nearly two decades has been to record the vibrant lost world of his childhood in Poland.

Ruth Ellen Gruber

KRAKOW, Poland (JTA) -- When Mayer Kirshenblatt was born, the town of Opatow in south-central Poland was known to most of its inhabitants as "Apt." That's because most of the population was Jewish, and Apt was Opatow's name in Yiddish.

The Holocaust left Yiddish Apt a distant memory, glimpsed dimly in sepia-tinted photographs or locked up in the hearts of the few people still alive who had known it before the destruction.

Kirshenblatt was one of them until 1990 when, at the age of 73, he taught himself to paint and began to record in colorful detail the vibrant lost world of his childhood hometown.

"I only paint one thing -- that's Apt," he said. "I paint not from my imagination but what actually happened."

Sprightly and bespectacled, with twinkling eyes and a bristly moustache, Kirshenblatt turned to painting at the urging of his family.

Since 1967, his daughter, the scholar Barbara Kirshenblatt-Gimblett, has conducted interviews with him on prewar Jewish life in Apt.

The recollections were published last year along with nearly 200 of Kirshenblatt's paintings as a book, "They Called Me Mayer July." The title stems from Kirshenblatt's childhood nickname, "Mayer Tamez," or "Mayer July" -- slang at the time for "Crazy Mayer."

The book has won several awards and brought international attention to the work of Kirshenblatt, who left Poland for Canada in 1934.

In recent months Kirshenblatt's paintings have been exhibited in San Francisco, and in the coming two years they are slated to be shown in Atlanta, New York, Amsterdam and Warsaw. This summer, for the second year in a row, Kirshenblatt's work was featured at the annual Jewish Culture Festival in Krakow.

And on June 28, Kirshenblatt and his daughter brought his memories of Apt back to present-day Opatow with an exhibition of 50 full-scale digital prints of his paintings, on display at the Opatow District Office building.

"It was absolutely fabulous," Kirshenblatt later said. "We had over 200 people and they made a tremendous display. The event was well advertised all over the city with posters -- even the priest mentioned it."

He added, "I've had exhibitions elsewhere, but here the people, the atmosphere, was absolutely the best I ever had."

It was, Kirshenblatt said, a far cry from the first time that he returned to his hometown. That was in 1988, when Poland was still in the grip of communist rule. "I was crying," he recalled. "I came to the town and there was not a sign of Jewishness."

Since then, Kirshenblatt and his daughter have returned on other occasions and established good relations with Opatow's residents.

"I enjoy going back there, and Opatow is beautiful," he said. "But it's not Apt."

Displaying the energy of someone far younger than 91, Kirshenblatt and his daughter have toured extensively, accompanying slide shows of his paintings with lively discussions of the incidents and people portrayed.

"At my age," he said, "to have another career like this is most terrific."

Detailed, wry and often witty, Kirshenblatt's paintings are peopled by sometimes crudely drawn characters, each of which seems to come to life as an individual. They crowd around dinner tables or cluster in the synagogue. They peer into windows, carry water in wooden buckets, play music, walk to school, mourn the dead, even commit a crime.

To a certain extent, the paintings recall the work of the American Grandma Moses, another self-taught artist who took up the brush in her 70s and created remembered scenes of rural life in 19th-century America.

History, though, has given Kirshenblatt's work a special edge.

The titles of his paintings alone reflect complex, even convoluted tales that defy common stereotypes. Some examples: "The Kleptomaniac Slipping a Fish Down Her Bosom," "Boy with a Herring," "The Hunchback's Wedding," and "Jadzka the Prostitute Shows off her Wares at the end of Market Day at Harshl Kishke's Well."

"What I'm trying to say is, 'Hey! There was a big world out there before the Holocaust,' " Kirshenblatt told his daughter in one recent conversation. "There was a rich cultural life in Poland as I knew it at the time. That's why I feel I'm doing something very important by showing what that life was like."

"It's in my head," he said. "I will be gone, but the book will be here."

Opatow's official Web site offers scant mention of the town's Jewish past. Most of those who live there now settled in the town from elsewhere after World War II. Knowledge about the town's prewar past is sketchy.

Things are changing, though, says Kirshenblatt-Gimblett.

At the exhibition in Opatow, she said, she met a young local man who wants to specialize in Jewish studies in college. And as part of a nationwide project of "adopting" historic places, a group of local people is attempting to document the destroyed Jewish cemetery and recover uprooted tombstones.

The high profile accorded her father and his work, Kirshenblatt-Gimblett said, are part of this process.

"They have really embraced him," she said. "They consider him really one of the people who holds the memory of the town."

Significant, too, she said, was the title given by town authorities to her father's exhibition.

"They called it 'Old Opatow,' not 'Old Jewish Opatow,' " she said. "And when we dedicated the book, we dedicated it to the people of Apt. So it's everybody, Jews and non-Jews alike, but we dedicated it to the town with its Jewish name."

Monday, June 30, 2008

The Rabbi Dances

Rabbi Edgar Gluck dances in the Tempel Synagogue after the close of Shabbos during the Jewish Culture Festival in Krakow.

Saturday, June 28, 2008

Wroclaw -- White Stork Synagogue



In Wroclaw, I visited the White Stork Synagogue. Renovations have been proceeding slowly.... but now the front facade as been restored, and the Aron ha Kodesh (ark) is also almost ready.

We attended a concert by the Norwegian Jewish singer Bente Kahan, who has settled in Wroclaw (thanks to her Polish husband) and in 2006 established a foundation to raise funds to restore the synagogue and also promote educational programs about Jewish heritage and culture and the Holocaust.

I spoke to Bente in her office, which is in the complex of buildings surrounding the synagogue, which also now houses the Lauder Jewish school, a hostel, a couple of cafes.

She told me that enough funding has been secured to enable the completion of the renovation of the synagogue by 2010. She's managed to do this by making her foundation a "neutral, non-profit organization" that, because of its neutrality, can navigate the sometimes treacherous waters between the municipality and the Jewish community.

Friday, June 27, 2008

Wroclaw en Route to Krakow

The Jewish Culture Festival in Krakow begins tonight...and I am heading there this afternoon from Wroclaw, where I took part in a fascinating conference on Modern Jewish Culture at Wroclaw University. Organized by the university's Jewish Studies Department and the Littman Library of Jewish Civilization, it grouped scholars from North America, Europe, Israel and Austria. Several speakers either quoted from or made mention of my book "Virtually Jewish" in their presentation, and it was gratifying and a little overwhelming to see what an impact the book seems to have had.

Coincidentally, or probably not coincidentally, an interview I conducted months ago with Wojtek and Malgosia Ornat, the Jewish tourism entrepreneurs in Krakow who run Klezmer Hois, ran today in the Forward. The Ornats also run the Austeria publishing house, which published "Letters from Europe (and Elsewhere)".

Friday, June 20, 2008

Synagogue in Jicin, CZ, Restored

Yet another synagogue in the Czech Republic has been restored and opened to the public. Jicin is northeast of Prague -- I saw the building was work was just beginning, in 2006.

Here's the report on the restoration from the International Survey of Jewish Monuments

Restoration of Baroque Synagogue in Jičín (Czech Republic) complete
by Samuel D. Gruber (ISJM)

Following nearly eight years (2001-2008) the restoration of the
magnificent Baroque synagogue in Jičín, North Bohemia (Czech Republic)
is complete. The Prague Jewish Community will officially open the
building to the public on Thursday, June 19, 2008. The restoration
project is part of a continuing effort by the Czech Jewish Community
to reclaim, protect and preserver its historic, cultural and artistic
heritage.

A Jewish settlement is known to have existed in Jičín in the second
half of the 14th century, but Jews were expelled from the town in
1542-45 and again in 1557-63. The now-restored synagogue was erected
in 1773, more than a century after Jews are known to have been
readmitted to the town. According to Dr. Arno Pařík of the Prague
Jewish Museum, "this is an exceptionally pure example of a small, late
Baroque synagogue." It is a rectangular building, approximately 12.5
meters long and 8.2 meters wide, with a fairly high saddle roof over a
barrel-vault, supported on traverse arches and 90 cm. thick walls.
The sanctuary is well-lit by three tall arched windows on the south
and north walls. Smaller windows are set in the west (façade) and east
walls, the latter dominated by the well-preserved masonry Ark, flanked
by twisted columns. The vivid wall paintings – mostly in reds and
blues – have been restored to their 1840 appearance. Photos of the
restored building will be posted soon at www.isjm.org
The building is now one of best preserved late Baroque synagogues
remaining in Central Europe.

The restoration of the synagogue was supervised by engineer Mojmír
Malý at Matana a.s., Administration of Buildings and Cemeteries.
Heritage supervision is provided by the Zecher Foundation for the
Preservation of Jewish Monuments through Dr. Arno Pařík, and the
National Heritage Institute – specialist department in Pardubice.
Financing has been provided by the Jewish Community of Prague, the
Czech Ministry of Culture, the District Authority of Hradec Králové,
and the Municipal Government of Jičín. Financial support for the
synagogue renovation has also been provided by the Jewish Heritage
Program and World Monuments Fund.

A Torah scroll from Jicin is now in the possession of Temple Shir
Tikva in Wayland, Massachusetts (USA).

For more on the history and architecture of the building see Arno
Pařík, "History and Renovation of Jičín Synagogue," Judaica Bohemiae
(40/2004), 104-122.

Saturday, June 14, 2008

Synagogue in Straznice, CZ, Restored




I was delighted to learn that the wonderful synagogue in the small town of Straznice, in southeast Czech Republic (southern Moravia) near the border with Slovakia, has been restored and will now be used as a local museum and cultural venue.

The synagogue was reopened with a festive ceremony June 5. It had been undergoing restoration work in fits and starts for acout 15 years. The synagogue is a barnlike building whose facade was enhanced by a sun dial. It stands amid ample remnants of the former Jewish quarter, with several other former Jewish buildings in the network of little streets. In an unusual arrangement, the synagogue is surrounded on three sides by the Jewish cemetery -- it always reminds me of a village church surrounded by a churchyard.

According the a Czech news agency report, the restoration cost 10 million Czech crowns (approx 16 crowns to one U.S. dollar).

When I visited Straznice in 2006, the outer walls had already been restored. Straznice is the latest in a series of restorations of Czech synagogues to be completed in recent years. The Czech Jewish community has developed (and implements) a clear strategy of preservation, conservation and restoration of Jewish heritage sites -- and this in turn falls within a general Czech strategy for monuments preservation.

Pictures here show the synagogue and surroundings in 2006.